Fjarå Café Bar

28th March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 3 Comments

Today we have to catch the overnight ferry back to Aberdeen. This is our last day and our last post from Shetland! Hurrah, we hear you cry! However, we feel a bit sad and rather appropriately, it’s raining. Back in January we made friends with another couple when we were at Balbirnie House and, in conversation, discovered that they were going to be in Shetland at the same time as ourselves. They had Shetland connections. What are the chances of that? Needless to say, we promised to meet up. This afternoon we’ve arranged to meet them at Fjarå Café Bar in Lerwick so our day’s meandering would have to be kept in check.

View of Scalloway Castle — Scalloway Castle built in 1600 was the home of Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney and Shetland. ‘Black Patie’, as he became known in Shetland, oppressed the local people and was what we call in Scotland “a rank badyin”

Scalloway was our first stop. It used to be the capital of Shetland until Lerwick became more commercially successful around 1880s. It was an old Viking settlement and today the population of about 1200. It looks a bit Tobermoryish with its brightly coloured houses. The famous Shetland Bus was based here. In 1940 Norway had been occupied by the Nazis. The Shetland Bus operated under cover of darkness transporting weapons and supplies across the North Sea and bringing back refugees. In small wooden fishing boats it was extremely dangerous, there were many tragic losses.

From Scalloway we headed south to the two long finger like islands of Trondra and Burra. Nowadays they’re not actually islands because they’re joined to the Shetland mainland by single lane bridges. Rowing boats used to be the only means of reaching the mainland so by 1961 the population had dwindled to just 60. The building of the bridges, however, has meant that almost 1000 people live here now. There’s an annual rowing event, ‘Round Trondra Race‘ and recently they have introduced “Da Peerie Neep” (“The Wee Turnip“) which takes place in Trondra Hall. One of the events is “Toss the Neep”. We’ll have to come back for that!

Another bridge took us to East Burra … famous for its bears. Not real bears but teddy bears knitted out of recycled Fair Isle jumpers at the Burra Bear workshop. When we got to the most southern part of Burra we came on the Red Houss . It had been signposted for miles so we thought it would be easily found. However it’s quite difficult, it’s tiny.

The Red Houss and Mike Finnie — The Red Houss and Pat with Mike, her new favourite jeweller

Inside we met Mike who was busy hammering out metal bunad buttons for a wedding in Norway. His workshop/showroom is bijoux but fantastic. Lots to see in this cosy well organised space. We particularly liked the beautiful silver necklaces he’d made from fragments of pottery picked up on the beach. Imagine what these fragments could have been. A teapot, a vase or maybe a plate that might have had a scone sitting on it in some far away place? Who did it belong to? How did it get broken? Anyway, he wouldn’t sell them … they were for an exhibition. Nevertheless my wallet took a fair bit of punishment hence Pat’s broad smile!

Now we had to head back to meet our friends at Fjarå. All readers who are fluent in Faroese will know that Fjarå (pronounced Feeara) means ‘beach’. Appropriate because it’s on the beach. As soon as we went in there were our friends. It was great to see them again. Much excited chatter as we swapped our Shetland experiences. Turned out we must have been standing right next to each other at the Delting Up Helly Aa in our Busta House post. Obviously, among all the celebrations and noisy Vikings we had just missed each other.

Fjarå Café Bar is a great place. It sits on a small peninsula of land jutting out into Brewick bay and has fantastic views across the water to Lerwick and beyond. You can sit here and just watch the wildlife. You might see seals, otters, whales and all sorts of birdlife while just sitting having a coffee. A young lad was looking after us very well and he soon had us fixed up with coffees and a fruit scone. It came with loads of jam and cream. The scone itself wasn’t quite a topscone but nevertheless, very enjoyable. A great way to round off the last of our Shetland days.

Soon it was time to catch the ferry and travel back to reality. Shetland is a great place to get away from the problems of world and UK politics … nobody’s all that bothered up here! They just seem to quietly get on with things in their own way. We’ve seen lots, reconnected with old friends and made new friends … fabulous!

ZE1 0ZJ tel: 01595 697388 Fjara

///domain.snapped.octopus

Scones, Uncategorized

Final Checkout

27th March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 8 Comments

WARNING: No scones feature in this post! However, before you judge us too harshly you should read on to see the extent of our efforts on your behalf. Scone hunting in the northernmost reaches of Scotland is not for the faint hearted!

Actually today started off in a different direction. Our intention was to go to Fair Isle which lies half way between Shetland and Orkney. Yesterday we had gone to Tingwall Airport, just six miles from Lerwick, to book seats but it was shut. No response to us knocking on the door of Terminal 1. There weren’t any other Terminals to choose from and it was Sunday!

This morning we were back again and the nice lady behind the desk looked at her screen only to announce apologetically that there was only one seat left. I said that Pat would sit on my knee, it’s only a 25 minute flight after all, but she just smiled pityingly and shook her head. A scone from Fair Isle would have been great but now we would have to revert to Plan B. That meant heading in the opposite direction to get as far north as we could. Muckle Flugga lighthouse was our new target. Onwards and northwards!

Dedication

To get there we had to catch a ferry to Yell, drive across Yell then another ferry to Unst. It promised to be a good day, the weather was lovely and we like ferries. From a sconological point of view Unst has the UK’s most northerly tearoom … Victoria’s Vintage Tearoom. Honestly, the things we do for our sconey readers!

Before long we were at Toft to catch our ferry to Yell. It’s always exciting to arrive somewhere new and waiting for ferries just heightens the anticipation. To add to the anticipation we had been told by a lorry driver that he missed the previous ferry because he hadn’t booked. He wasn’t sure if he would get on the next one either. Argh! We weren’t booked either! Turns out catching ferries is a bit of a lottery if you’re not booked. No problem though, we got on and so did our lorry driver. Fifteen minutes later we were arriving at Ulsta on Yell!

Restoration project

Yell has a population of about 1000 people and has been inhabited since Neolithic times. There are many Pictish brochs. You can also find the ruins of the Windhouse – the most haunted house on Shetland. It was built in 1707 and when it was being renovated 160 years later skeletons were found under the floor. An English couple bought it in 2003 to restore it … no restoration ever took place and it’s back on the market. Anyone interested? Apparently, being this close to Norway, there’s quite a lot of trolls on Yell.

Ferry arriving at Gutcher on Yell with Unst in the distance

Luftwaffe

Once again the roads were first class and before long we were in Gutcher waiting for the ferry to Belmont on Unst. Gutcher is a tiny settlement but during WWII the Luftwaffe bombed the post office in an attempt to disrupt communications … hard to believe.

Lord Bothwell, Mary Queen of Scot’s third husband, fled to Unst when he was accused of murdering her second husband. Three ships were sent to bring him back but the sea battle that followed resulted in him sailing off to Norway. Obviously, he didn’t need to book a ferry!

Stereotyping?

No time was wasted in making our way to Victoria’s Vintage Tearoom at Haroldswick in the very north of Unst. It was closed! If it wasn’t for bad luck we wouldn’t have no luck at all.

External view of Victoria's Vintage Tearoom, Unst — The Uk’s most northerly tearoom

We had an odd experience here. As far as we could make out we were the only people around for miles apart from two Americans working in the garden of the house next door. They were speaking loudly to each other but apart from a curt “it’s closed“, they steadfastly ignored us. That’s in spite of us being just a few feet away in this vast expanse of emptiness. Having become so used to the warmth and friendliness of the Shetlanders we found this a little disconcerting. Before we get into trouble with our American readers let us emphasise that we are not saying this is stereotypical American behaviour. We know the complete opposite to be true … honest!

End of the world

Not to worry, a little further along the road at Hermaness we reached the end of the road and our destination, the Muckle Flugga lighthouse. No ferries, bookable or otherwise, to the island but at least we could see it. To the east lies the Norwegian Sea, to the north the Artic ocean and to the left the Atlantic. Apart from a nature reserve there’s nothing here. It has that Tierra del Fuego “end of the world” feel about it.

Map of Yell and Unst — The lighthouse was built in 1854 to protect naval vessels going to war in Crimea … somethings never change! My birthday present bottle of Muckle Flugga whisky is supposed to be stored for 12 months in a cave near here to give it its unique characteristic flavour. Couldn’t find the cave!

Men!

It used to be most northerly inhabited island in the UK until 1995 when the lighthouse was automated. That honour has now passed to Unst. For those interested in geology, Muckle Flugga was formed when two giants fell in love with the same mermaid. They fought over her by throwing large rocks at each other, one of which became Muckle Flugga. To get rid of them, the mermaid offered to marry whichever one would follow her to the North Pole. They both followed her and drowned, as neither could swim. Men??

Sconeless we headed south again and this was when we came on the Final Checkout, the most northerly shop in the UK. Amazingly, at £1.55 a litre it also seemed to have the cheapest diesel in the UK.

No scones so we decided to have a sassermaet (correct spelling) and egg roll.

Sassermeat and egg roll — Our Unst scone

Sassermeat is a Shetland speciality. It’s like what we would call ‘square’ or ‘Lorne’ sausage but made with their own spices. It had to be sampled. It was excellent but definitely not a scone! The initial appearance of The Final Checkout is deceptive. It’s big and has just about everything you could possibly think of: plumbing, electrical, household, groceries .. it’s all here! When I said to them “if I was to ask you for something you haven’t got, I would be struggling” They simply replied “If we’ve not got it, we’ll get it for you” … simple! We left with a supply of sassermaet to take home as a reminder of a very enjoyable visit.

Honesty

We have been surprised by the number of honesty boxes on Shetland … there’s a lot. A bit further down the road at Baltasound we came across this one.

Bobby's bus shelter on Unst — The bus shelter is the famous Bobby’s bus shelter. Bobby was a local boy who got his father to campaign to have the shelter reinstated after it was removed by the Council. He used to cycle to catch the bus and needed somewhere to leave his bike. Once it was put back odd things happened. Every summer it mysteriously acquires a sofa, a TV, a microwave, curtains and even its own website.

The honesty boxes usually contain things like eggs, jam, sweets and cakes and have little cash boxes for the money … a problem in our cashless society. This one was in the form of a little house and when we lifted the roof it revealed boxes of eggs and packets of Shetland fudge. We had three one pound coins so the fudge was ours … yeah! It’s rather nice to see these things all over the place and we think it says something about the way of life up here.

To add to the general weirdness, the little traffic island adjacent to the shelter is dedicated to renowned disk jockey, J ohn Peel who died in Peru a few years ago! Why?

Return to Lerwick

Simone's petit cafe — The notice says: This is an honesty cafe, so help yourselves, use the book to write down what you have taken and paid … and enjoy!

On our return journey we took the road down the east coast of Yell. Near Burravoe we discovered Le Petit Cafe – Chez Simone. Unfortunately, only open in the summer but it even has its own Unst Weather Rock … more fun than looking at your phone! Back in Lerwick and dinner in the Dowry. Oh dear we’re getting near the end of our Shetland adventure.

Fingers crossed

Today, Scotland’s new First Minister, Humza Yousaf, was announced following the sudden resignation of Nicola Sturgeon. Hopefully he will accelerate our journey to becoming a self respecting independent country once again!

ZE2 9TW tel: 01957 711666 Final Checkout FB

///bandstand.pegs.decimals

ps: our Austrian correspondents have sent a photo of a “delicious” scone they had in the cafe of the Tower of London. Last year they travelled all over South Korea but it was sconeless. Okay, we can delete South Korea from our bucket list. Many thanks M&C

Ordinary, Scones

Braewick Cafe

24th March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 7 Comments

It’s another day on Shetland and this time we are heading north west to a large peninsular area called Northmavine. There’s not a lot of cafes and restaurants up there and we had been told that the Braewick cafe still hadn’t opened for the summer. We would go anyway. In spite of what you might think we don’t have one track scone minds.

The spoils of oil

One thing you do notice when you arrive in Shetland is the roads. They are fantastic! Even single track roads going to settlements of five or six houses are as smooth as the proverbial baby’s bum. Don’t think we have ever come across a single pothole. When the oil boom started in the 1960s and 70s, Shetlanders were smart enough to know they could extract money from the oil companies for the use of their islands. The huge Sullom Voe Oil Terminal became operational around 1980 and a consortium of companies had to pay into the Shetland Oil Fund. It was used to benefit the community in all sorts of ways, the roads are just one example.

Directly across the water from here lies Norway and if you ask any Norwegian where their oil riches have gone, they would know exactly. They have the biggest Wealth Fund in the world in which everyone shares. If you were to ask the same question in the UK you would just get a blank stare.

Spoils of oil spoiled

It has all been frittered away on vanity projects in the south of England and to further line the pockets of the wealthy. The M25, the Channel Tunnel, Crossrail and now the greatest waste of money ever, the £130billion HS2 rail link … we could go on. None of it benefits Scotland and no one in Scotland would be able to point to anything apart from jobs that have resulted from oil. Margaret Thatcher used North Sea oil funds to fight the unions and destroy all of Scotland’s manufacturing industries … not a happy story. Anyway, well done Shetland for getting some tangible benefits.

Humour

Let’s head out to the wild Atlantic coast. To do that a number of people have said that the best place is Eschaness on the western extremity of Northmavine.

When we arrived in the biggest town, Hillswick, we wondered if there were any public toilets and were relieved to see this sign. Imagine our surprise when we discovered that they were ‘outside’ toilets, about eight of them. Shetland humour!

External view of St Magnus Hotel, Hillswick — St Magnus Bay Hotel

There’s not much in Hillswick except the St Magnus Bay Hotel. It’s odd when you arrive at places like this and think it’s deserted. You go in and it’s absolutely mobbed. Everyone was having lunch. All fully booked unfortunately, so they could only offer us coffee.

The chap who owned the hotel regaled me with the trials and tribulations of running a place like this. Fuel prices are going through the roof and staff are hard to come by. He’s been contemplating a windmill to power the hotel. Capital expenditure is prohibitive and the strength of the winds in Hillswick mean that they would need constant and expensive maintenance. In such an out of the way place as this, we can hardly believe that it can be run successfully at all yet he has been doing it for many years. Hats off to him!

The drinking horse

Onwards we go with Eshaness in our sights this time. On our way we see the massive rock formation, Dore Holm.

Dore Holm rock near Braewick — Dore Holm, Shetland’s ‘drinking horse’ in what we regard as a windy day and again in what Shetlanders would regard as a windy day

The Braewick cafe is situated at Eshaness and guess what, it was open … yeah! It must be summer! It has a rather austere exterior and once again there didn’t seem to be anyone around. But that’s because, like the St Magnus, they were all inside

After some delicious lentil soup we set about the scone which we were sharing. It was a fruit scone of some sort but not in the usual way. There was fruit but we couldn’t quite tell what it was. The cream was scooshie and before long it was just water. The consistency was on the heavy side. Not the best scone we have ever had but probably not the worst. Heyho, it was nice just to be here and looking out at the view.

View from Braewick Cafe — View of the Drongs sea stacs from the Braewick cafe

Far too late

The coastline here is dramatic and little wonder … it is exposed to the full force of the Atlantic. Nothing between here and North America! Apparently about 350 million years ago Shetland lay near the equator and had a tropical climate. We’re sorry we missed that! The cliffs we see today formed the side of what once was the Eshaness volcano. How do they know this? Well, apparently it’s all in the plain to see (to a geologist) lava layers laid down by the volcano after successive eruptions.

The Eshaness lighthouse was built in 1929, the last manned lighthouse built by the Stevenson family. It is built of concrete which all had to be brought in by pony and cart.

Eshaness is a holiday let if you really want get away from it all

Back to Lerwick after another great day and quiet night in. Tomorrow is another day.

ZE2 9RS tel: 01806 503345 Braewick Cafe

///lift.aware.reactions

island, Ordinary, Scones

Hoswick Visitor Centre

23rd March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 9 Comments

After an action packed Up Helly Aa day at Busta House on Shetland we are continuing today by journeying south. We have three targets in mind: St Ninan’s Isle, Hoswick Visitor Centre and Sumburgh Head.

Tombola

It was a glorious day and our first stop was St Ninan’s Isle. Beaches don’t come much more beautiful than this! It is referred to as a tombola beach. We’ve read the explanation as to how these things get formed but we still don’t understand. Anyway this one is 500m long and allowed us to make our way over to the St Ninian’s chapel on the island itself. Remember our post from Hidden Treasure at Johnshaven, well they really did find treasure here. Fabulous Pictish brooches and other artefacts.

St Ninian's chapel — small stone 12th century church built on the foundations of an earlier Iron Age structure 800 BC to AD 400 … burial ground used for almost 2,000 years.

It turns out that St Ninan never visited this place … what? Okay, okay everyone knows that he actually lived on a roundabout in Stirling. This is a magical place and we had it all to ourselves, however, it was sconeless. It was getting to that time! We had to move on!

Knitwear

Hoswick was already on our radar because an acquaintance has a knitwear place there called Neilanell knitwear.

Nielanell'shop and overall's hanging out drying for Trump — Niela runs a thriving knitwear business from here. And one size overall’s hanging out drying ready for Trump … or Putin

Unfortunately Neila was laid low at home but a very helpful young girl showed us all her fabulous hand knitted stuff. Get well soon Neila!

The Hoswick Visitor Centre was just a few feet away around the corner. As soon as we walked in we were welcomed by Betty Smith who wanted to show us everything in the shop part of the Centre. There were quite a few possibilities but we thought we should ponder over a scone first before making any impulse purchases. There was cheese and plain on offer. Cheese was the winner. Sophie makes them fresh every day. We just had it with butter and it was definitely the best cheese scone we have had in ages.

Having pondered on what to purchase I decide I would like a bow tie (it’s a long story). While Pat and Betty went off to select one I read up on the Hoswick Whale Case of 1888.

Hoswick bay — Hoswich bay as it is today and when it was covered in pilot whales in 1888

In 1888 the men and boys from this community drove ashore 300 whales, which were sold for £454. The people were facing starvation due to a failed fishing season and early snow resulting in disaster for the harvest. Typically, perhaps, the local landowner, John Bruce the Younger decided to claim what he regarded as his rightful share in spite of having done precisely nothing to help. A large court case followed which eventually found in favour of the laird. He got a third of everything … t’was ever thus!

Kindness

Pat and Betty had selected a lovely tweed bow tie but in the process of going round with Betty, Pat had let slip that today was a special day for me. Earlier, I had been presented me with a bottle of Muckle Flugga whisky. Highly recommended as a way to start the day.

Pat feeding Shetland ponies pan drops — Pat discovering that Shetland ponies love pan drops

Turned out Betty was going to be the same age as me in a couple of months … a mere sapling! Once again we were delighted by how friendly and welcoming everyone was. As we returned to our car Betty came after us waving frantically. She gave us a box containing a cheese and a plain scone … how nice is that? Lovely people!

Our last destination was Sumburgh Head. You can’t go any further south than this without ending up in the sea. It was quite something. With great difficulty I managed to get the car door open because of the wind. It was fierce. Very difficult to just stand still so watching the seabirds on the cliff edge was a definite no no!

At Sumburgh airport the main road crosses the main runway. They are very relaxed on Shetland. Pat got a bit excited, however, when I stopped to take a picture.

At night we went to No88 in Lerwick for a birthday dinner. What a night with more of the local people making us feel sooo welcome. There was much Muckle Flugga testing! It’s excellent but more testing is needed 😀

ZE2 9HL tel: 01950 431406 Hoswick Visitor

///changes.haggle.digitally

island, Scones, Top

Busta House Hotel

22nd March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 7 Comments

After an overnight ferry crossing, here we are in Shetland. We have long promised ourselves a visit but things have always got in the way. Not this time though, we are here … yeah! We will be staying in Lerwick, the capital, but a booking for tea and scones at Busta House Hotel meant that we couldn’t hang around there long. We had to get to the town of Brae and it was a wee bit away.

Shetland has had the worst snow it has experienced in over twenty years. Normally the Gulf Stream protects it from such weather. As we drove to Brae it was obvious just how bad it had been. There were remnants everywhere and by the side of the road the snow was still quite deep in places. We were happy to have missed the worst of it.

Inheritance

Thomas Gifford, Shetland’s wealthiest resident built Busta House in 1748. He had 14 children, including 4 sons. Unfortunately all were lost when they set off by boat to visit friends on the other side of the bay. It was a fine May evening, the boat was found undamaged with all their belongings but they had all vanished. A long running legal battle over inheritance that lasted 93 years eventually bankrupted the entire family.

Internal view of Busta House Hotel — the Long Room. The large cupboard on the left houses a huge selection of whiskies

In 1960 Queen Elizabeth II took tea in the Long Room where we are today. Since her visit they have, no doubt, been eagerly awaiting ours.

After a very warm welcome we were soon settled in a large window seat to await our scones. They came beautifully presented with everything needed in the way of butter, jam and cream. The scone was warm and just the way we like them. The first topscone we’ve had in ages … hurrah! As we sat there, however, thinking how fantastic it was to be here we became aware of what sounded like a right old rumpus happening outside.

500 sheep

Viking invasion at Busta House Hotel — Invading Vikings and Duane, the Jarl

Actually it was not so much a rumpus more a full scale invasion … an invasion of Vikings! We were aware of Brae holding the final Up Helly Aa of the season but we didn’t expect this! The hotel is pretty much in the middle of nowhere so where had they all come from? Anyway they were all given a dram and this seemed to completely nullify any raping and pillaging tendencies. They were the friendliest, happiest bunch of people you could ever hope to meet. Pat met Jimmy Johnston. who had asked if he could have his picture taken with her?? Then tried to impress her by pointing to the massive shed on the hill that had 500 of his wintering sheep in it. He also seemed to own most of the land round about the hotel. Yes, she was impressed but probably more by the warmth of his company … he was brilliant!

They brought their own music and there was much singing and dancing! Magic!

trainee Viking

Later we went to the Galley shed in Brae where they had prepared a galley for Up Helly Aa.

The Galley Shed

There Pat met Eddie Thompson who couldn’t do enough for us. In 1995 he had been a Jarl (chieftain) himself.

Pat with Eddie Thompson — Eddie with Pat and Eddie as the much feared Ivar The Boneless in 1995

He showed us round the Galley Shed and even took us to the store where all of the 400 torches were waiting to be collected. There was an almost overpowering smell of paraffin so no naked lights here!

He advised us that if we wanted anything to eat we should walk along to Frankies because it would be closing soon. Frankie’s has won Best Fish and Chip Shop in the World and we can understand why. Probably the best fish supper we have ever had! With full tummies we returned to the Galley Shed where Eddie made us some very welcome coffees. What a guy! Everyone is so friendly up here! And then it all started!

The start of the Delting Up Helly Aa — Spectators watch lighting the torches

Start of the Delting Up Helly Aa procession

Perfect day

We were blown away by the the sheer happiness of this event. The whole community had made huge efforts to ensure its success. We asked Eddie if Health & Safety ever got involved. He said they didn’t but that everyone knew that the slightest mishap could result in 400 years of history being lost. Everyone was very careful. The procession made its way around to the other side of the bay where the galley was launched into the sea and all the torches were thrown into it while it drifted away. Quite a spectacle! Perfect day, a topscone, new friends and an Up Helly Aa! And we’ve only just arrived!

The Delting Up Helly Aa — Across the bay, the procession arrives at the launch point for the galley

Today, Boris Johnson is trying to justify himself to the House of Commons. He along with his Tory party have proved over recent years that all that’s required to be Prime Minister of the UK is a pulse. Wonder what our Vikings would make of him? Think we know!

ZE2 9QN tel: 01806 522 506 Busta House

///zones.denoting.collision

Ordinary, Scones

Hidden Treasure

19th March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 4 Comments

We’re on our way to the Northern Isles but have stopped off here at the Hidden Treasure Tearoom in Johnshaven. It’s off the main road going to Aberdeen but we’ve always wondered what it’s like when we’ve seen the direction signs. Today is the day.

Blackbeard

Johnshaven is an odd name and obviously we wanted to know who ‘John’ was. Turns out John Blackbeard was a famous 16th century pirate who was washed ashore here with lots of treasure after being shipwrecked. Unfortunately though, that’s all nonsense … we’ve just made it up. Nobody in Johnshaven has any idea how it got its name. Shame, they should just make something up … that’s what they do in Westminster.

Anyway, we thought the Hidden Treasure might lie in this tearoom. Maybe it would be a scone … exciting?

Picture of last boat built in Johnshaven — Before it became a tearoom it was used for boatbuilding.. The Sea Venture was the last to be built in the tearoom.

The postie

It’s a wonderfully friendly place and we were entertained the whole time. At one point an old worthy arrived on an invalid scooter which he parked at the door. The conversation with the girls behind the counter and several of the other customers went something like this. “Don’t forget the cheesecake, she loves the cheesecake and she thinks I make it myself. She’s pregnant now but it’s nothing to do with me!” one of the other customers contributed that someone else was pregnant as well. Eventually the consensus was “It must be the postman because he has a bike!”

This was the backdrop to our scone. It came with the jam of our choice and a fantastic bowl of cream, enough to do two or three scones. We thoroughly enjoyed everything about this place. Everyone was so friendly and chatty. The scone was a treasure! Not quite a topscone but really enjoyable.

The world is our lobster

Johnshaven is a tiny village but amazingly huge juggernauts come here every day to transport the lobster catch to Paris and Madrid. Who would have thought it. We went to the Lobster Shop and the chap in there, when he heard that Pat had never had lobster, insisted on her trying some of his. She loved it so it might be lobster from now on …. argh! Might need to go back out to work. We also got a fascinating insight in to their operation on the Isle of Luing. We know the island well but had no idea there was a massive lobster facility there.

Not exactly in the news loop any more but we gather that an arrest warrant has been issued for Vladamir Putin … not before time! Wouldn’t fancy being the arresting officer. And our Home Secretary, Suella Braverman is visiting Rwanda. Let’s hope she likes so much she decides to stay there … for ever!

DD10 0EU tel: 07506 896842 Hidden Treasure Tearoom FB

///mysteries.spice.toward

Ordinary, Scones, self-service

Edenmill Café

5th March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 16 Comments

Our short break at the Black Bull in Gartmore has come to an end. It’s been a lot of fun but today we have to head for home … boo! We decided, however to return by a different route and that’s how we came to end up at the Edenmill Café. What took us in the direction of Edenmill was a search for the Devil’s Pulpit. No one quite knew why we had heard of the Devil’s Pulpit except for a vague recollection that it featured in Outlander. It wasn’t easy to find!

Believable?

We should have known we were in the right area, however, because the landscape round here is dominated by the Whangie, a strange rock formation where, many years ago, we used to go for practice rock climbs if we could’t make it as far as Glencoe. Apparently the weird cleft in the rock was formed by Satan’s tail when he rushed round the mountain, late for a witch’s coven. Okay, okay, but let’s face it, if you believe Westminster’s story about Brexit being a wonderful success, you might as well believe this one too! In fact, it’s a lot more believable!

Sacrifices

Anyway, there were no direction signs whatsoever for the Devil’s Pulpit. It was almost as if we weren’t supposed to go there! Eventually we parked in a rough area beside some other cars and reckoned they would be trying to find it as well. All we knew was that it is was”over there somewhere.”

Danger of death

We headed off across a field and knew we must be getting close when we came across some sacrificial offerings hung high on a telegraph wire. No idea why so many trainers were strung up there but hopefully their owners hadn’t come to some dark satanic misfortune. Goodness, it was the devil’s own job trying to find this place. After wandering in all sorts of directions we eventually came on a path through a wood that looked promising. The Devil’s Pulpit is actually an extremely narrow 100ft deep gorge in Finnich Glen. There didn’t seem to be any way to access it that didn’t involve certain and immediate death.

Way down to the Devil's Pulpit — Almost vertical slippery Devil’s Steps with only a rope (thick green string) to hang on to

A notice saying “Exploring Finnich Glen – Danger of Death or Serious Injury” didn’t really help! And when we did eventually find the ‘official’ access point, it didn’t look at all inviting. Not called the Devil’s Steps for nothing! We could hear the squeals of the youngsters who were half way down and thought that it might not be the best thing for old arthritic codgers like us. Just think of the humiliation having to be rescued … many have had exactly that experience!

the Devil's Pulpit — it’s kind of magical if you can get down there … and back up!

Alpacas

We asked a teenager emerging back up the steps if there were any scones down there. The response was puzzled but negative so that sealed the deal. Enough adventuring, we were off to the Edenmill Café just a few miles further down the road!

Edenmill is huge and seems to do all sorts of things. There’s a butcher shop, a soft play area and a bunkhouse as well as the café. Pat wanted to go alpaca trekking but, in the end, the lure of the scones proved too much.

We placed our order then went outside to sit in the warm spring sunshine. Still feeling the effects of the Black Bull breakfast it was just some coffee and a fruit scone to share. No cream but it was presented with plenty of pre-packed jam and butter and it had nice crunchy exterior we like. We thoroughly enjoyed it but perhaps the sunshine and that feeling you get having narrowly cheated death was enhancing our experience. Maybe a slight exaggeration! Enjoyable but not quite a topscone! Haven’t had a topscone in ages!

Eventually we had to part company with our Trossachs correspondents and make our way back home. They have been brilliant company and now we feel much better acquainted with this part of the world. Look forward to doing it all again sometime.

G63 9AX tel: 01360 771707 Edenmill

///brains.frosted.loaning

ps: Apparently there is an upcoming £2million pound project to build a large car park, a café, visitor centre and easily accessed viewing platforms at the Devil’s Pulpit. Presumably to cater for all the Outlander fans. We’re happy to have seen it in its raw state.

Ordinary, Scones, self-service

Kitchen Window

2nd March 2023 billpaterson1@me.com 5 Comments

Okay, we’re still staying at the Black Bull in Gartmore with our Trossachs correspondents. And, since we are in the Trossachs, we are relying on their local knowledge and expertise to guide us. That’s why you find us here, at the Kitchen Window in Killearn. It’s a beautiful little village, only a ten minute drive from where we are staying. And for some mysterious reason it has completely avoided us in the past. Even stranger, the village lies in the strath (valley) of the River Endrick, Strathendrick and Strathendrick is the name of our house.

landscape of Killearn — View across Strathendrick with Killearn bottom left of centre

The first thing you notice as you drive into the village is an almighty obelisk. Turns out it’s dedicated to the memory of George Buchanan who was born here in 1506.

The Buchanan memorial, Killearn — 30m Buchanan Memorial

George may be the most famous person you have never heard of. Educated here in Killearn and in Paris, according to many he was “the most profound intellectual sixteenth century Scotland produced,” Mary Queen of Scots was once his pupil. A humanist and a poet, he campaigned against monarchy and corruption in the church. He believed that power should lie with the people. This, of course, landed him in all sorts of trouble with the people who actually had the power … and wanted to keep it that way. One of Glasgow’s main shopping streets, Buchanan Street, is named after him. We had always wondered who Buchanan of Buchanan Street was but now we know.

American constitution

Sounds like a guy ahead of his time but if he returned today, five centuries later, he would be surprised to find that there’s still plenty to campaign about. He was held in high regard and his advice on the responsibilities of leaders was sought while drawing up the American constitution. There’s much more we could tell you about George but just a few yards along the street lies the Kitchen Window cafe. Feeling guilty for never having heard of George we felt the least we could do was have a scone in his honour. Pathetic, we know!

Advice to leaders

The building that now houses the village hall used to be the Parish Church, built in 1826. Now it has a large ultra modern, all singing/dancing extension that houses The Kitchen Window cafe. It’s an impressive space and must be an invaluable asset for the community. We noticed the size of the scones so ordered one to share. Nothing pre-packed and foreign here. Unfortunately, they didn’t have cream but our scone came with a lovely pot of jam and a generous slab of butter. What’s not to like? Nothing really, it was all great but again it wasn’t quite a topscone. We feel sure that part of George Buchanan’s advice to leaders would be to experience the civilising influence of scones and afternoon tea as often as possible. The world might be a better place!

Tolls

Being introduced to Killearn, George Buchanan and the Kitchen Window has been a great experience. We’re indebted to our correspondents. And, joy of joys, we are happy to report that we drove through the village for free … yeah! On the opposite side of the street from the Kitchen Window was the old Toll House.

In 1844 it cost sixpence to drive through Killearn in your Barouche or your Diligence … or your Hearse?

View of Killearn — Killearn in the winter sun

G63 9NL tel: 01360 550116 Kitchen Window

///intruding.configure.rocky

Dedication

Restoration project

Luftwaffe

Stereotyping?

End of the world

Men!

Honesty

Return to Lerwick

Fingers crossed

The spoils of oil

Spoils of oil spoiled

Humour

The drinking horse

Far too late

Tombola

Knitwear

Kindness

Inheritance

500 sheep

The Galley Shed

Perfect day

Blackbeard

The postie

The world is our lobster

Believable?

Sacrifices

Danger of death

Alpacas

American constitution

Advice to leaders

Tolls

by Bill and Pat Paterson and is about finding good scones throughout the world, with a little bit of politics